We traveled to Greece on our honeymoon and Sifnos was definitely our favorite island. All in all, our honeymoon was 2.5 weeks, including our flights. We were able to explore Athens (my guide to Athens!) at the beginning and the end of our trip, but we were the most excited to lounge on the beaches of the islands of Milos, Sifnos, Mykonos and Zakynthos.
Sifnos, part of the Cyclades islands, has a lovely sun-drenched small town feel. It’s not huge but there are a few different towns and beaches to visit that make it worth it to spend several days there and it’s important to say that you will need a car while you’re there. Known for the epic hiking trails, the pottery and the food ~ Conde Nast Traveller calls it “the most delicious Greek island“.
Noah and I arrived to the tiny port of Kamares from Milos on the ferry (which took 1.5 hours).
LODGING at the Hotel Andromeda
In Kamares, we hadn’t pre-arranged a rental car but were able to find a place within walking distance that had one available, and started making our way south to the center of the island to Apollonia. There we found our beautiful boutique hotel, the Andromeda. It’a kind of hidden but it was thrilling to finally find this very special hotel, run by two French expats, tucked away between the hillsides of Exabela. Our nicely designed “garden view” suite had a lovely outdoor sitting area. Just up the hill was a horse whipping its tail and eating grass in the breeze. ummm what? Absolute rustic paradise.
Every morning, we had breakfast (which was included) over by the pool. Fresh juices, baked goods, soft boiled eggs, just so perfect. In the evening, this area turned into a bar with cocktails, etc. We would also bring drinks back to our little private patio. You can book this room here on Airbnb.
LUNCH in FAROS
One our first day, we went to find a very traditional fish restaurant and found the famous Limanaki Fish Tavern in the small port of Faros. We ordered some beers (our favorites ended up being Mamos and Alpha), a classic greek salad and the grilled fish of the day. We watched families jump off the edge of the quay and swim in the water or picnic on a nearby sandy beach. Was perfect outing for an easy lazy day.
BEACH DAY in VATHI
All the way to the southwest of the island is the town of Vathi. It’s a smaller protected cove with a few restaurants and a slightly rustic feel. We spent an afternoon at Nostos Beach Bar sleeping and reading and sipping drinks on their chaise lounges. I’ve heard there are ceramics studios there but I hadn’t done the research beforehand so I didn’t make it to any. If you want to look into the ceramics check out this studio, Atsonios.
If we go back I would think about staying at one of these places in Vathi:
HIKING to PROFITIS ILIAS
We spent our 2nd day on Sifnos hiking and I highly recommend setting aside a day to hike the trails on this island which are so picturesque. Along the trails, there are beautiful wild herbs like thyme and oregano and mountain tea growing and filling the air with a natural perfume. I loved getting a better sense of the island terrain which is pretty mountainous and at the end of the day, a dip in the Aegean felt even better.
Before you set out, I suggest looking at the Sifnos Trails Project, and choosing a hike. They have great pictures to get a feel for which views you want to see and all the elevations and specifics you might want to reference. We hiked the 6B (“out and back) “Firogia – Profitis Ilias”. The reward at the top is the Profitis Ilias Monastery, monks lived there from the 12th century a.d., until 1890.
“Sifnos has more than 100km of professionally designed and way-marked trails, one of the largest trail networks of the Aegean.” – Sifnos Trails Project
Searching for MOUSSAKA at Apokofto Beach
Noah does a great job of talking to everyone we meet along the way and finding out all the places to visit and meals to eat. We had heard about a famous moussaka, which could be ordered at the Chrysopigi Tavern down at the beach near the famous striking Chrysopigi Monastery. Moussaka is like a Greek version of the Italian lasagna ~ ground meat covered with mashed potatoes. It was in fact delicious and we enjoyed the impressive busy restaurant by the water. Afterwards, we spent some time laying on the beach post lunch, snoozing and beach combing.
ROMANTIC DINNER in PLATIS GIALOS
We spent our last night dining at the lovely, romantic fish restaurant, Yalos, with our toes in the sand. Cocktails were on point and the crudo was excellent. It was a gorgeous night and the bright blue sky changed to purple as the sun went down. Later someone set off fireworks and it felt so special like everyone was celebrating with us!
After dinner, we walked the beach and stopped in some pottery shops. I bought a tiny traditional votive made of terracotta.
If we came back to Sifnos (which I hope we do) I might like to stay at Verina Terra in Platis Gialos.
After another sweet breakfast at the Andromeda, we took off back to the ferry. Mykonos was next!
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